Opinion
Notes From Ghana
On Friday, August 4, 2017, my Lagos-Accra flight touched down at Kotoka Airport at 7.30am and by 8am I had gone through the tables of very cautious officers of immigration, customs etc and was at the car park where Frank, the Uber driver, was on hand. My mission was dual: a speaking engagement and the wedding of my grandniece, Ijeoma Sweetie Ukposi, and Festus Otoo Ankrahin Cape Coast. First, I was struck by the population of little cars vis-à-vis SUVs: for every SUV, there were fifteen little cars and this also reflected at the car marts.
The journey to Cape Coast took three hours; it was a period of interesting observations and conversation with Frank, a Ghanaian. There were only two police checkpoints and they were proclaimed by giant billboards about one hundred meters away; at the first one, only one car was stopped and we drove past virtually unnoticed; at the second one, we were flagged down and one of the officers approached us, said “Charlie, how are you?” as he shook our hands heartily and added a courteous “safe journey;” I could virtually see all his thirty-two as they glittered in the morning light, contrasting with his healthy ebony skin.
I couldn’t but ask Frank: “is he your friend?” “No; why?” answered and asked Frank; feebly, I said “because of the way he greeted us;” “oh no, that’s how we are with them,” Frank answered.”And he called you Charlie?” I furthered; “everyman in Ghana is Charlie,” Frank added. “This is a human society,” I soliloquized.
Given the import of the statement “that’s how we are,” I pried more on the Ghanaian society: I learned that dating and marriage across religious hedgerow is a norm and Christians and Moslems jointly celebrate the religious festivals; assimilation in a community with every political and socioeconomic right is automatic after nine months of residence; power outage is a rarity and ample notice is given prior to it.
At the wedding of Ijeoma and Festus on Saturday, a cocktail of clergies adorned the altar of the Anglican Church: Rt. Rev. Victor Atta-Baftoe, Rev. Canon JWK DeGraft-Johnson, Rev. Fr. Theophilus Odametey, Rev. Mrs. Trudy Wright (a Methodist), Rev. Samuel Boateng and others officiated. Certain contents of the service supplicated to Mary for her intercession and some of the choristers and many in the congregation did the cross on their chest in the Catholic tradition; the Holy Communion was also a mixed grill. At the end of the ceremony, I approached the Vicar with my observation of ecumenism. He said it is the tradition in Cape Coast Diocese. Again, in soliloquy, I said “this is a human society where religion is not allowed to play a divisive role.”
On Sunday, August 6, a Nigerian driver took me on the return journey to Accra; we made it in two hours. Granted that the variables of weekday and weekend may have affected the duration of the journeys, the point remains that Frank obeyed every traffic rule; this is a telltale of the attitudinal disposition of Ghanaians vis-à-vis Nigerians. Chronicling the account of my journey to Ghana in 2004, I averred that, in terms of civility, Ghanaians were twenty years ahead of Nigerians; (The Tide, June 29, 2004:9) in this outing, I harbored the hope that that assessment would change; it did; but unfortunately, it furthered the gap. Ghana is a human society. Have we always been this way?
I was born at the staff quarters of UAC Beach at Alinso Okeanu in Ogba/Egbema/Ndoni Local Government Area (ONELGA), Rivers State. As a major trading post of UAC, the Beach was a cosmopolitan with the Rest House as residence for the Europeans, UAC quarters for staff and ethnic neighborhoods (aka Ogbes) for Ijaws, Kalabaris, Mbieri (Ibos), Yorubas, Hausas and Abohs; the Urhobos lived in the bush where they processed palm produce; there were two churches (Catholic and Anglican) and a mosque.
Resultantly, our worldview was very wide; we joined the Moslems in celebrating Sallah, which we referred to as “Hausa Christmas” and they joined us in celebrating Christmas and Easter. Every face had a name and child upbringing was a collective responsibility; the adults reprimanded and, sometimes, corporally punished unruly children and the parents visited later and thanked the adult.
So the question is: where did the ethnic and religious divide come from? Interestingly, responding to a question by Aljazeera (May 9, 2011) regarding the sectarian crisis in Egypt, an Egyptian said thus: “when we were children, religion was never an issue; it is the criminal elements that make an issue of it.” This underscores the situationality of religion as a source of conflict. As it was in Alinso-Okeanu, Nigeria of the fifties, so it is in Ghana today; as it was in Egypt in 2011, so it is in Nigeria today. “What went wrong?”
Borrowing from the Egyptian quoted above: it is the criminal elements at the pulpits and political podiums that make an issue of religion and have led to the climacteric Nigeria is in today. The tragedy is that we have persistently refused to listen to the voice of reason, voice of cohesion; rather, we harken to the diatribes of religious and ethnic bigotry and that is a major reason we are where we are today.
Osai writes from Rivers State University, Port Harcourt.
Email: jasonosai1@yahoo.com
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